Held annually in Verona since 1967, Vinitaly is widely considered one of the most important wine trade fairs in the world, bringing together thousands of producers and professionals from over 140 countries. It is a space where the global wine industry not only does business, but increasingly reflects on its own structures, contradictions and future direction.
The discussion that took place during the Grapes of Change panel was introduced and moderated by Laura Donadoni, journalist, wine educator and international communicator, part of the team of Sistemi Formativi Confindustria, the lead partner of the project. She opened with a point that is both simple and slightly unsettling: the wine sector still lacks structured, reliable data on gender dynamics and discrimination.
This absence has consequences. It keeps inequalities in a grey area where they are perceived, discussed informally, but rarely measured or addressed in a systematic way. Grapes of Change was conceived precisely to fill this gap, combining research with direct engagement of companies, with a clear objective: to improve working environments while demonstrating that inclusion is not just a value, but a driver of organisational well-being and productivity.
Luisa Ortu, representing Confindustria Toscana and a project partner, provided a deeper look into the Observatory, the central tool of the initiative. The Observatory is designed to collect both quantitative and qualitative data across the entire wine value chain, from production to distribution, communication and tourism. Its ambition goes beyond simply “taking a picture” of the current situation. By identifying patterns and recurring dynamics, it aims to build a shared, evidence-based understanding of the sector, involving companies, stakeholders and academic partners. In a context where much of the conversation is still based on perception, this shift toward structured knowledge represents a crucial step forward.
Dominga Cotarella, entrepreneur and one of the most recognisable figures in Italian wine, brought the perspective of a company that has already begun to evolve its model.
Her experience shows how a wine business can move beyond a product-centered identity and embrace a broader role, integrating education, social responsibility and inclusion into its strategy.
What emerges from her contribution is not a theoretical framework, but a practical demonstration that sustainability and inclusion can generate both cultural and economic value. It is a reminder that change in this sector does not necessarily come from disruption, but often from a gradual redefinition of priorities.
Elvia Gregorace, lecturer, sommelier and writer, shifted the focus to language and cultural representation. Her intervention explored how the relationship between women and wine has historically been shaped by narratives that are often reductive or stereotypical.
Language, in this sense, is not neutral. It contributes to defining roles, expectations and legitimacy. Rethinking how the sector tells its own story is therefore not an aesthetic exercise, but a necessary step toward a more inclusive culture that recognises complexity rather than simplifying it.
The most grounded and, in many ways, most revealing reflection came from Diana Lenzi, Head of the Wine Sector at Coldiretti and a wine entrepreneur herself. Lenzi brought attention to a structural contradiction that is widely known within the sector but rarely addressed openly: the gap between formal representation and actual contribution of women in wine businesses.
While statistics indicate that around 28% of wine companies are officially led by women, this figure only scratches the surface. In a large number of family-run wineries, which still represent the backbone of the Italian wine system, women play a central role that often remains invisible. They are involved in production, administration, hospitality, communication, logistics and commercial relationships. They manage complexity, hold together different parts of the business, and often act as informal decision-makers. Yet, in many cases, this work is not formally recognised, not adequately remunerated, and not reflected in official titles or ownership structures.
This is not simply a matter of visibility, but of value. When work is not named, it is not measured. When it is not measured, it is not considered in economic terms, nor in policy-making. The result is a distorted representation of the sector, where women appear less present and less influential than they actually are.
One of the core ambitions of Grapes of Change is precisely to address this distortion. By collecting data and documenting these dynamics, the project aims to give legitimacy and recognition to this widespread, everyday contribution. The goal is not to “add” women into the narrative, but to finally acknowledge the role they already play, restoring dignity to work that has long been taken for granted.
The panel closed with an institutional contribution by Mariafrancesca Serra, President of Donne Coldiretti. Her intervention framed agriculture as a cultural and social system, emphasising the role of women in building communities, networks and long-term resilience within the sector.
Innovation, in this perspective, is not only technological but also social, and requires a shift in how roles and responsibilities are understood across the entire system.
What made this panel particularly significant was not only the content of the discussion, but also the immediate response it generated. Following the debate, several companies and stakeholders present expressed concrete interest in joining the Grapes of Change project, signalling a growing awareness and a willingness to move beyond passive listening.
The final message of the panel was clear: Grapes of Change is not intended as a manifesto, but as a working framework. Through the Observatory and the active involvement of companies, the project aims to produce tangible, measurable outcomes.
Because the sector does not lack awareness. What it has lacked, so far, is a structured way to turn that awareness into action.